I have bled and bled and bled some more have gone through 2 gal of break fluid. They feel good till i drive it then they bled off about a half mile in to a ride the break petal will go straight to the floor but the steering will still work. Then after about another half mile the steering breaks will start to get weak and i will have to hold the break pedal all the way down and then pull the steering breaks to make them work. When i take it back to the house let it sit overnight and then i can pump them and get pressure till the next time i drive it then the same thing again.

I have tried bleeding them every way possible vacuum bleeding the normal two person way. I put a line on the bleeder valve and ran it back to the reservoir and pumped the hell out of them. the one thing i did not do is pressure bleeder. i have even gone as far as lifting the back of the buggy to head height to get the bubbles to move to the calipers . any ideas anyone.

I have willwood 4 piston calipers in the rear and 2 piston in front cnc cutter breaks and cnc pedal and master cylinder.

Is there any one close to nky that would be willing to help it would be greatly appreciated.

ahhhh! bleading sucks this is not what you want to hear but you just need to keep after em! lifting the buggy is a good idea! i do that myself, you can also take the calipers off and point one side of the wilwoods strait up! you will need to put something close to your rotor size between the pads though when you do this another thing has your master been bled? if not raise the front of your buggy and bleed the master because the master feeds from the front(which will be the lowest point if you are bleading from the rear) we have been bleading on racefreaks for 4 days and no matter how many times you do it, it never gets easier if you look at the brake forum there is a post on how to make a power bleader on the cheap and i highly advise to give it a try!!! hope that helps

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lets just ride

(If you have CNC). If you need a new master cylinder cup go to Auto Zone and get a wheel cylinder rebuild kit 66599. It will have two 3/4" cups in it identical to CNC .$4.00.I keep 1 in my other buggies always. You may have a good pedal but when you let off, the cup slides past a rough area and lets air suck in.Moisture causes corrosion in the smooth bore and rust falls off from your spring and washer and plunger and builds lumps.Swap cylinders and see if you have the same problem.CNC would not sell NEAR as many parts to us if they built stuff out of the rite material.You have a 20 year old 4x4 chevy and it stops on a dime. $300 brake assy. and it last 2-3 years.

Oh , and wear latex gloves. These synthetic chemicals penatrate your skin and end up in your liver. And wear your googles and surgical mask while grinding or welding.You will breath and see clearly the next day.Lowes sells some googles with +150 200 and 250 reading spectacle lens built in. NICE for ol fokes. Oh , and when you high speed grind and you have 10,000 orange sparks hithing your wifes new car. A week later these micro -scopic steel balls that have embedded in the paint start to rust and streak and you've got some splainin dado. One more. If you have to drench a super heated part in old motor oil to 1/2 a$$ harden it. Do it outside. It will set the bucket of oil on fire when it splashes. DON'T splash it on your hands or clothes.The compt says their is a little more to it as far as hot cold hot cold so read up and BE SAFE!Don't burn your house down or yourself! If your sweat shirt catches on fire turn it inside out as you pull it off then smother any thing else with it. Don't set a battery down with the caps off or acid will splash in your eyes. Wash your eyes with ANYTHING RITE NOW!Motor oil, your last beer ,Obama's pi$$,what ever.

Sounds like air still in them. Try the power bleeder, do the procedure right. It works way better than a vac bleeder. If that doesnt do it, then you need some new components, most likely will need to replace the cuttin brake or rebuild it like previous post said.
http://www.woodsbuggy.com/index.php?opt ... =10&t=8652

Tear off bits of a paper towel and wrap them around each DRY fitting , union , connection etc. and under the M/C rubber boot. Bleed mash etc then re-investigate and look for a damp connection.

Rotors could be bent as well.

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Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.
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We have had all kinds of issues with those willwood calipers. Mine will work fine the 1/2 hour into racing, I'll loose my pedal for a turn or 2 then its back. I have a pressure bleeder, but it honestly didn't help because if all the air is out, all the air is out! Make sure your rear wheel bearings are good and tight and you don't have any movement anywhere at the rotor or caliper. A couple of us changed pads and that seemed to help a little.

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Maybe you should chug on over to mamby pamby land....

Hey. I had to learn this way also...

Along with bad bearrings, bent or worn stub axles,the bearring may not be fitting in the housing snug. Take an old feeler gauge blade out of the set and wedge it above or below the wheel bearring to take up the slack.Add a never been on a buggy 4 bolt hole bearring cap. The tolerance will be as good as new.

Sorry pissat, I guess I'll just call you first before I try to lend some advise on an issue i've delt with a few times

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Maybe you should chug on over to mamby pamby land....

You know that is not how I meant it.I agree with what you said. It's the manufacturers i have grief with.

A pulse in your pedal will say something is bent or off center making the pads move out and the next foot application will loose travel. A loose AXLE nut will not have as much or any pulse but will let your pads move out and the next foot application will loose travel.Maybe thats why you have to pump things up to get a full pedal?A worn inner BALL bearring like Racebug says will make you have the same loose axle nut affect. Keep in mind your ft pedal has a small piston and your calipers have 2 Large ones (in your case, 4), so any games played on the rotor means a HUGE volume difference for the ft pedal to make up.

Any luck?

I will not have time till Wednesday to mess with it but i did mess with it a little more last night with no luck. Im going to check all the things you all listed and ill let you guys know.

Thanks for the info.

anyone live near nky that would be willing to help or that has a pressure bleeder. would be greatly appreciated.

this should be a sticky

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If your clutch ain't slippin,, you probably got it adjusted right!!!!!

yea it should even thought most people will not do what it says its still good info

Hi,
I am hoping that you could find a better solution.
I am waiting for a good news to listen from you at Wednesday.
Thanks

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discount tire minneapolis

How far you from Louisville? Covered up, but maybe I can figure out somethin. PM me.

Ok so here is what i have the steering breaks are cnc however the rest is not like i said originally sorry about that. I have a few questions.

1. How would i put a pressure bleeder on this type master cylinder ?

2. I do have a little bit of play in the bearings on the rear wheels. should there be any it is only maybe a 1/16 inch at the break rotor.

we drilled and tapped a hole in a solid plate about the same size as your reservoir.. and cut a gasket to fit, then used c clamps to secure the top... race freak has the same reservoir and it worked for us

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lets just ride

do those calipers have 2 bleeders on top 1 inside and 1 outside ??? r u bleeding both of them

They have 4 bleeders on each caliper two top and two bottom 2 on each side. yea i bleed both inner and outer bleeders.

If you will remove 1 mounting bolt from that caliper,block the pads, and swing it up so the bleeder is pointing straight up, I think you'll find the air.

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A good friend will bail you out of jail. A best friend will be sitting next to you saying: "Damn that was fun!"



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