drilled rotor questions

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drilled rotor questions

Postby hillaholic » Sun Feb 07, 2010 12:42 am

I need new rear rotors. Thinking about these but want to make sure they will hold up to 4 piston Wilwoods. I was just going to buy solid rotors but found these for 60 each. What do you think?

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Re: drilled rotor questions

Postby MadMike » Sun Feb 07, 2010 1:31 am

The only thing I worry about is the stub axle spline on that type rotor. Heard of them getting stripped out real easy. If I remember right I have the Porche 914 rotors and drives on mine.
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Re: drilled rotor questions

Postby davehix » Sun Feb 07, 2010 1:53 am

i have seen these break around the center . i got 4 of them in the garage like that i beleive they are brazilian ones.
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Re: drilled rotor questions

Postby buggiejunky » Sun Feb 07, 2010 3:18 am

yeap mister hix kills the brazilian ones !!!
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Re: drilled rotor questions

Postby gasman » Sun Feb 07, 2010 8:09 pm

sorry brad i have a question too about drilled rotors also.how much weight does it save and does the mud get in them and glaze up or does it just dry out and fall out of them.i think they look cool just wanting to know how much better they are than solid ones.and i cant help it i had to ask.chad :mrgreen:
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Re: drilled rotor questions

Postby stingrayrat765 » Sun Feb 07, 2010 9:38 pm

i read a post about 2months ago saying no to new ones! , centers failed on street bug. it was a warning from guy driving on interstate and suprise. i have 86 corvette rear rotars and matching girling calipers on bus stubs and work great for 50bucks, richard
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Re: drilled rotor questions

Postby MadMike » Sun Feb 07, 2010 9:39 pm

There is no real weight savings, a pound or so for both. I wouldn't want them on my car. Too many places for little rocks to get stuck into wiping out brake pads.
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Re: drilled rotor questions

Postby hillaholic » Sun Feb 07, 2010 10:16 pm

I just priced porsche stuff and came up with this.

rotors 53.75 each
Cant find hubs? will type 3 hubs work?
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Re: drilled rotor questions

Postby ridenrace6 » Mon Feb 08, 2010 1:21 am

ok i must be missing something here cause i thought most everybody was running a 1 piece rotor these days,,,,,,at least most of ones ives seen in person and looked at are 1 piece

is it a certain brand that the centers bust out of or what?

also is this not the same ones in this post, they have even been machined ?
http://www.woodsbuggy.com/index.php?opt ... &start=100
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Re: drilled rotor questions

Postby kybuggy1 » Mon Feb 08, 2010 9:02 am

ridenrace6 wrote:ok i must be missing something here cause i thought most everybody was running a 1 piece rotor these days,,,,,,at least most of ones ives seen in person and looked at are 1 piece

is it a certain brand that the centers bust out of or what?

also is this not the same ones in this post, they have even been machined ?
http://www.woodsbuggy.com/index.php?opt ... &start=100

I believe they ARE referring to one piece rotors that they are bustin the centers out of. But we drill n cut n thin and everything else to these cheap $55 one piece rotors and they do alright. I do know of Willie bustin one, but he could bust a wreckin ball. :twisted: (Actually though, in his defense, it was REALLY REALLY lightened by the PO of his orange inline 8). Bout 3/16 thick with large slots in the hat and the braking surface)

It makes a big difference in your wheel offset and weight, and even weight of the buggy whether you can butcher up a rotor and expect it to live or not. Minimal offset wide wheels, especially heavy ones with heavy tires on them put ALOT of pressure on the rotor hat area.
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Re: drilled rotor questions

Postby hillaholic » Mon Feb 08, 2010 5:43 pm

Ok what rotors should I run?

I have 35x14.50x15 Boggers on Duralight 15x14x5 wheels with a 1" adaptor and Wilwood 4 piston calipers. Wheel tire and adaptor weigh 74lbs.
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Re: drilled rotor questions

Postby buggiejunky » Mon Feb 08, 2010 6:28 pm

the hats r not what breaks its either the splines strip or they crack around the splined parts of the hub davehix and another broke them with 1641s do not buy the brazilian rear 1 piece rotors
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Re: drilled rotor questions

Postby kybuggy1 » Mon Feb 08, 2010 8:29 pm

hillaholic wrote:Ok what rotors should I run?

I have 35x14.50x15 Boggers on Duralight 15x14x5 wheels with a 1" adaptor and Wilwood 4 piston calipers. Wheel tire and adaptor weigh 74lbs.

I have no idea. I got similar wheels with 1/2" adapters n 4 ply stones, but only weighs about 38 lbs together.

I was saying the ones you posted would prolly be fine, but apparently others dont agree. It was my opinion. I think they look like a good deal, only $5 more than what I pay and they're already drilled out alot. Me n 50 other people (at least) I know use them with little problems. I guess my statement should of been "they work fine for me." :|

uess
buggiejunky wrote:the hats r not what breaks its either the splines strip or they crack around the splined parts of the hub davehix and another broke them with 1641s do not buy the brazilian rear 1 piece rotors
Ok, dont buy 'em then. I dont own any stock in them. :) I dont think a/c vw cc's would have a big effect on how much weight they can stand, but I could be wrong.

The ones I SAW break ,1 broke the hat all the way around the studs and

the other one broke all over the damn thing. But there was prolly less there than what they started with by the time they were done lightening it.
Many others aint broke at all , even though they have been lightened quite a bit too and put thru some hell.
They ARE soft cheap metal, and will warp quicker once they been lightened.
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Re: drilled rotor questions

Postby Buckmaster » Mon Feb 08, 2010 8:56 pm

Jamar and Tatum sell some for about $800 including calipers.
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Re: drilled rotor questions

Postby dunebuggynut » Mon Feb 08, 2010 9:02 pm

All Ive ever run are econo rotors & have never had a problem. I have a brand new pair, Do I have to worry about them breaking?
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